flatline wrote:Colonel_Tetsuya wrote:flatline wrote:Please forgive my confusion, but if I parry a flaming sword (4d6MD) with my unenergized vibro-blade, why wouldn't the flaming sword do 4d6 damage to the blade?
--flatline
But if I parry a flaming sword, my weapon is coming in contact with flaming sword in exactly the same way as if the sword were targeting my weapon (it's not like a flaming sword has a "flat" edge that I can attempt to contact with).
Why do you make that assumption? It's a flaming sword. operative word being
sword. It has a flat edge. And parrying a blow does NOT bring your sword into violent opposed contact with the other weapon, "as if the sword were targetting your weapon". In fact, almost no part of a sword/weapon fight brings two weapons into violent direct opposition where one could actually be brought to bear on/damage the other.
But it's not a sword in the classic sense. It doesn't do impact or cutting or piercing damage like a sword does. It's a column of flame. It does damage by burning. It has no flat edge for you to deflect it by. If you contact it with something, a vibro-blade, for instance, it will damage the vibro-blade if there is nothing preventing the damage like, say, a energy field (whatever that is).
It doesn't ever say that it is summoning a column of flame, it says it summons a flaming
sword. It's a sword, with all the working parts of a sword. Just like a
Lightblade.
flatline wrote:This is just conceptually broken.
I agree, the concept that by merely briefly touching (for milliseconds) a flaming object means it automatically inflicts damage on you is conceptually broken. It doesn't make the tiniest bit of sense.
Contact during a parry is more realistically measured in tenths of a second, maybe hundredths in the extreme, but not milliseconds. Plenty of time for a super hot column of flame to damage whatever you're deflecting it with.
I've got almost 22 years of re-enactment and studying western swordplay that tells me otherwise, including practical experience fighting with real, live steel weapons (while appropriately armored). The only time you're going to have extended contact for more than a fraction of a second is when you do something like straight-blade a block or deliberately catch their blade in your quillions in an attempt to force their weapon out of striking range in close-in combat (usually accomplished by doing so and then stepping in chest-to-chest while forcing their arm wide; they can either let you do so and let their arm get pushed, or be disarmed).
The myth you see in Hollywood of sword battles with these huge sweeping arcs and lound CLANG! is just that - a myth. No one parried like that in anything but desperation, and you NEVER parry blade-on, because it is a great way to permanently damage your weapon. There are some excellent treatises on medieval swordfighting available. I recommend Oakeshott (
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ewart_Oakeshott).
And, oh yeah.. we already talked about how it
isn't a column of fire. It's a
sword. There's a great picture of one in the original Rifts book being wielded by a Psi-stalker, in the Psi-stalker section. Sword.
flatline wrote:Can I similarly "parry" the flaming sword if I'm bare handed and not be damaged by it even though my arm is SDC?
--flatline
Im at a loss to understand what the nature of the parrying object has to do with this. Parrying correctly involves milliseconds of contact at best.
Again, you are mistaken on the time scale at which a parry occurs. If the parry truly happened on the scale of milliseconds, you would never perceive either weapon bending, and yet the deflection is clearly visible. Some parries last longer than a second as you guide your opponent's weapon.
A sword will usually bend and flex as it moves through the air, without opposition. They aren't as thick as people seem to think they are (barring some japanese weapons, like the Katana, which have very thick back-blades and are quite rigid). And what you're talking about (parrying by guiding someone's weapon out of place) isn't properly called a parry. It's a variation of a straight-blade block (so called because you lock your wrist, keeping the blade straight at 90 degrees to your fist, to intercept the shot, generally by punching straight out, catching the opponents weapon at the base of your blade between the blade and the quillions, so the force doesn't have any leverage to knock the weapon out of your hand. It also isn't a move you want to try on a lot of swords with less than robust quillions or without a basket. I'm
very familiar with this move because my preference for swords runs to basket hilted cut-and-thrust swords, such as a Claymore or Schiavona.
flatline wrote:too many people watch hollywood movies where they straight-blade block attacks and assume that is how you parry a blow. It isn't.
I have a spring steel tai chi sword in the closet and I have studied some of its applications in combat against armed opponents. I do not speak from total ignorance.
--flatline
Ooh, is this the part where we get to compare collections?
Lets see...
I have three examples of a Schiavona, two replicas (17th and 18thth century patterns) and one antique (from the late 17th or early 18th centuries) worth about ~2000$ or so...
I really like the Schiavona.
a Spanish-style swept-hilt rapier and matching main-gauche (replicas) in a style from about the mid 17th century. Very simple and elegant, as compared to the very complex and somewhat ugly and overwrought baskets that came about later.
a british 'war sword' - basically a generic cruciform infantry sword; properly sized, it will swing free when you drop your arm to the side. (That's how you can tell its for fighting on the ground!) Mine is a replica of a pattern common all across europe in the 1400s.
A Confederate Cavalry saber (real) - worth about ~700 bucks. Unfortunately, it is from one of more common southern foundries and is not a much more valuable "dog river" sword.
A mid-1500s boarding cutlass, used by pretty much every navy of the time (replica)
A swiss Landsknecht Basilard (short sword/dagger) from the mid-1600s (replica)
Two halberds, one a Swiss dueling style and another a German formation-weapon (replicas)
A "horsemans" mace - actually shorter than a footmans weapon, because it gains most of its power from you leaning out of the saddle while galloping. Mine is entirely steel.
I did re-enactment and LARPing for almost 23 years. I've fought in everything from the bare SCA minimums (ouch) to "heavy" full-gothic plate armor. Ive fought with real weapons (which is actually rather safe when properly armored; swords cant really hurt plate armor much) and with practice weapons from wooden to latex, as well as LARP safe weapons (dont buy one of those wooden swords and use a pool noodle... get some 3/4" rattan from your local martial arts supplier - you want something that gives a bit when you strike; barring that, 3/4" PVC (not cPVC) is also great for anything shorter than ~38" - then apply Pool Noodle and duct tape - in long strips, not spiral bound, that will compress the padding). I assure you, i know what im talking about.
Im loving the Foes list; it's the only thing keeping me from tearing out my eyes from the dumb.