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Anyone have any words of wisdom for priming these models? I usually use a black primer for Warhammer, but I feel like white could be a better choice here.

I'm thinking white, or at least a light grey primer myself. These models will probably look best with bright colours and that's easier to do with the light background.

I normally use black primer for my 40k armies. To show more vibrant colors on the RRT models I'll be using gray spray primer. White is good too, but gray shows off the colors more.

Hay, this will help me too! Thanks!

I always use black for my WH40K stuff unless I'm doing yellow (never try to do yellow over black .. it's HORRIBLE!)

For my RRT stuff, I used white and it worked great. Grey would work well too.

personally, I would avoid black, although there is one guy I saw who did his in black and carefully painted the panels leaving the black for his blacklining. I think he called it his "paint by numbers" method. It looked fantastic.

I paint armies, not models. So, I detest white primer and really like colored primers when they can appropriately be used. When not using colored base coat primers, I've defaulted to gray - Krylon or Rustoleum gray primers are great and cheap. I also hate painting white - what a horrid color (or lack there of).

For RTT specifically, my son and I have cranked out quite a few models and are using several different primers - none are white, I just don't think it necessary or helpful. White priming means you have to cover the entire model in other colors - fill in the recesses - why not just use a better color for that?

For units that will be white at end state - a few regults but mostly Veritech - we are priming them black and then dry brushing up to white/off-white gray. The models are not sculpted with deep lines for the most part, so we are dry brushing very dry - to keep some depth. then we block, 25% wash and highlight. The white is not gleaming, but look very much a white color on the table top with all the darker terrain and such colors as a contrast.

I really like the darker gray regult and glaug paint schemes in the book, so most regults are coming out in gray and get a gray primer, 50% wash, gray drybrush and then block/highlight. Looks good, I think the regults are one of the better models to paint, still could use some better cut lines though.

For the Destroids we went to our cache of Flames of War colored primers - they have modern military colors so we decided to use those - pretty easy to use. I want to make another T'hawk sqd in camo and that should look good I think.

Army Painter also makes colour primers.

MattK512 wrote:I paint armies, not models. So, I detest white primer and really like colored primers when they can appropriately be used. When not using colored base coat primers, I've defaulted to gray - Krylon or Rustoleum gray primers are great and cheap. I also hate painting white - what a horrid color (or lack there of).

For RTT specifically, my son and I have cranked out quite a few models and are using several different primers - none are white, I just don't think it necessary or helpful. White priming means you have to cover the entire model in other colors - fill in the recesses - why not just use a better color for that?

For units that will be white at end state - a few regults but mostly Veritech - we are priming them black and then dry brushing up to white/off-white gray. The models are not sculpted with deep lines for the most part, so we are dry brushing very dry - to keep some depth. then we block, 25% wash and highlight. The white is not gleaming, but look very much a white color on the table top with all the darker terrain and such colors as a contrast.

I really like the darker gray regult and glaug paint schemes in the book, so most regults are coming out in gray and get a gray primer, 50% wash, gray drybrush and then block/highlight. Looks good, I think the regults are one of the better models to paint, still could use some better cut lines though.

For the Destroids we went to our cache of Flames of War colored primers - they have modern military colors so we decided to use those - pretty easy to use. I want to make another T'hawk sqd in camo and that should look good I think.

Any particular type of primer for Krylon? Found it on Amazon for ~$9 a can.

White primers has always worked just fine for me.

Used Krylon Fusion glossy white...looks so terrible. Definitely going non-gloss white or regular black next time.

Yeah, never use gloss as a primer/basecoat .. oops.

IWillNeverGrowUp wrote:Yeah, never use gloss as a primer/basecoat .. oops.

You live, you learn...LOL. Already ordered main box set #2, will try to salvage the glossed models...don't like double priming.

Mr. Spock wrote:

IWillNeverGrowUp wrote:Yeah, never use gloss as a primer/basecoat .. oops.

You live, you learn...LOL. Already ordered main box set #2, will try to salvage the glossed models...don't like double priming.

Oh believe me, I've made plenty of mistakes over the years.

I'm not a fan of double priming myself, but if it's thin enough, perhaps a very light coat of matte white would help. Failing that, it MAY be possible to remove it soaking it in a solution like Simple Green and a stiff brush so you can salvage and restart (I have not tried this on these pieces yet, just old metal minis and a few GW plastics, so I don't know if it will work well or not).

They can always be used for scenic bases

I have been using Tamiya's gray primer.

Jefffar wrote:They can always be used for scenic bases

Not a bad idea. Just primed the UEDF models from box #2, used the Citadel chaos black. So much better. The models paint up nicely, and I'm not a very good painter to begin with.

I use: https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-ca ... r-2x/matte

Either in black or white depending on the overall color scheme I would like. It covers REALLY well and puts a nice finish for paint to adhere to. I only use the Matte finish.

All the local stores carry it...Home Depot, Menards, Walmart, etc.... Best Primer I could find.

I'll be using the Vallejo grey primer on the figures without a lot of white and the white primer on the ones that are predominately white. I also have the grey (which I used on Miriya's Queadluun-Rau) and white Tamiya primers which I might use on a few but I'm trying to avoid lacquer based paints. Even so they are excellent. Don't see anything here that needs a black primer which works for me because I'm not fond of using one.

If you are using an airbrush, I highly recommend Mig Jimenez's Ammo line of primers. They seem a little pricey but they are large bottles so they go a long, long ways.

I use Tamiya and/or Testors white primers for the Valkyries/Veritechs but Grey primer on the Destroids. Just to make the Zentraedi stand out and have an outer space look I used red primer on the Glaugs and the others. It really does make a difference.

Another thing I thought of is for people who are new to modeling and want an easy tip to help make their models look great is to invest in three primers, black mid tone grey and bright white so you can do a technique called Zenithal Highlight which is a technique that builds the highlight in to the primer coat.

Step 1: Fully prime the model in black being sure to turn it side ways and upside down so you get full coverage on the model

Step 2: Making sure to keep you model upright and level (a cheap hobby turntable works great for this) apply the grey primer from an angle of 45 degrees above the model. The idea here is that if we imagine the sun shining down on the model, the areas where the sunlight hit are going to be brighter than the areas that are in shadow. By holding the spray can or airbrush at a 45 degree angle above, we're preventing the grey from reaching those shadowed places so the paint will naturally be darker in those areas.

Step 3: Take the white primer and lightly spray it from almost directly above the model. The idea where is that the light source lightens the paint job the most where it strikes the unit directly rather than at an angle. So the idea here isn't to totally base coat the model but rather to hit the highest points. On UEDF models, be sure to get the tops of the feet as they are easily overlooked but protrude well past the body.

-MaxGravity